SOUTH AND NORTH KANARA TOUR FOR A WEEK

This tour with family for a week was planned by road and my second son had to drive all the way and started on 01 04 2022 early morning from Bangalore and returned to Bangalore on 08 04 22 afternoon.  This had all the aspects, namely having darshan at temples, enjoying in Malpe Beach in Udupi and Beach at Murdeshwar and also Gokak falls and further actively involved in learning the historic significance of the sculpting works in Badami, Pattadakall and Aihole.

Dharmathsthala, Horanadu, Naravi, Kateel, Malpe beach of udupi, Krishna and other temples of Udupi, Kollur Mookambika Devi temple, Murdeshwar, Idagunji, Gokarna, Sirsi, Belgavi, Badami and around and also Harihara and Davangere are the places covered in the tour.

01 04 22            

Started early morning and had Dharshan of Sree Manjunatha at Dharmathsala and also took the Annaprasada there and moved to Horanadu and had darshan of Sree Annapoorneswari late evening and stayed at Horanadu.

02 04 22         

Ugadi day. Early morning vacated the hotel and moved to Sringeri to darshan of Sree Sharadambal.  We did not stay there to get the blessing of the Acharya  Swamigal which will be in the afternoon or evening.  Thus started at 09.30 am  after having breakfast there in the nearby hotel and moved to Naravi and was at 11.00 am and had divya darshan of Sree Suryanarayanaswami.   There was not much of a crowd here and thus we left for Kateel from there and was at 12.30 pm.  Large number  of devotees had gathered there and still we had darshan at this temple with half an hour in queue.  Proceeding from there to Malpe Beach  resort we had booked a room and on the way, we had a lunch at MTR1924 near Udupi.   Taking rest until 5 pm, we enjoyed in the Malpe seashore for an hour and half and then proceeded to Sree Balaramar temple which is just 700 metres from the beach.  The Balarama Vigragha was the one taken along with Sree   Krishna by Guru Madhwacharyar.  A small but beautiful temple and around 15 people had gathered for darshan at that time and followers of ISKON were  doing Bhajan at that time.  Proceeded to Udupi and had a late evening darshan   at Sree Anantheswara, Sree Chandramouleeshwara and Sree Krishna.  We were fortunate to see the temple car procession and some family members also drew  the Ther for some distance.   We were in the queue for around 40 minutes to have darshan of Lord Krishna through the Nava dhwara.  Had tiffin in the night  at Mitra samaj near the temple at around 08.45 pm which was the closing time of the hotel and returned to place of stay.

                                                      Sree Suryanarayana temple Naravi

Sree Durgaparameshwari temple Kateel

Udupi Sree Krishna Temple

03 04 22

The complimentary breakfast in the Hotel was taken and proceeded to Sree Mookambika temple at Kollur.   Though we reached at 11.20 hours, we stood in the normal queue and waited for the darshan of the Devi at finally had darshan at 12.50 hrs.  There is a Rs.100/- Queue for Special Darshan.  This helped us to see the procession taken for the afternoon pooja around the temple which was  very near to the Queue, including Goddess in the Ratha and in Palanquin taken  around arranged by some of the devotees. We proceeded to Murdeshwar and had our Lunch at Hotel Kamath at Murdeshwara.  After settling in the Hotel booked there and having rest for an hour, we went to the Murdeshwar temple as also enjoyed the seashore at  Murdeshwar. Children would enjoy this seashore with horse and camel riding, Power boats, skidive and also one can go to the Islands a little away from the shore.  The dinner was also at the Kamats'. 

04 04 22        

Reaching early Murdeshwar previous evening, gave the opportunity the  made us to include Gokarnam too in the morning session of this day.   But we went first to Idagunji and had a wonderful Dharshan of Sree Mahaganapthy there.   The temple opens at 6.30 am and we were there at 7 am.   We had packed earlier some bread the previous day and after Dharshan we had it there and moved to Gokarna and was there at 9.30 am.  First we had Dharshan of the Ganapthy who was instrumental in Lord Mahabaleshwar staying in Gokarnam. Not much of a Queue though devotees had gathered there.  We were allowed to feel the Lingam which was deep in the hole.  As our original programme, we reached Sirsi in the  afternoon and stayed there at Hotel Madhuvana.   We had our lunch there.  Took rest until evening.   In the evening, we proceeded to Sree Marikamba  temple and Sree Mahaganapthy (Dodda Ganapathy) temple and retuned back  in the evening had dinner too at hotel Madhuvana.    

05 04 22         

Left Sirsi at 7 am and reached Shahasralinga in the river Shalamala. The water level was not much, thus we could see more of the lingams and there is no pooja  done here though on Mahasivarathri day people gather to perform pooja to lingams.  Children can also enjoy here on the hanging bridge over the river.  After being there for an hour, we left for Belgavi and on the way, we took Lunch at a hotel on the way, Hotel Indraprastha.   We could have moved from Sirsi to Badami but we went to Belgavi and stayed there for the night.

06 04 22      

After a complimentary Breakfast at the Hotel, proceeded to Badami and reached  in the afternoon.  We found the options for Vegetarians lesser at Badami and had  our Lunch at a Hotel near Bus Station of Badami, which served Veg Food. After  rest for two hours, left to Badami cave temples and to Banshankari temple in the  evening and night stay at Badami.  One should have good physique to ascend the  steps of the Badami cave temple.  The first cave is dedicated to Lord Shiva and  only a few steps are to be climbed for that and the second and third caves have more steps.  One can also see at the eastern end the Lake and Bhoothnath temple from  the second cave area itself.  After dinner, settled in the Hotel.  Thee is entry ticket for Badami caves for those above 12 years.

07 04 22    

After a complimentary breakfast in the hotel, proceeded to the stone structures of  Pattadakall and Aihole.  At Pattadakall, 19 kms from Badami, Virupaksha temple  and other structures stand testimony to the skills of our sculptors of the Chalukya regime.  At Aihole, stone structures all around the place and it is said that around 125 temples are present here.  In the enclosure in the archeological department, there are about 14 temples.   Entry tickets are to be purchased at both Pattadakall and Aihole.   The route preferred for going towards Bangalore, is again coming  back to Badami and thus planning can be suitably done according to the necessity.    We wanted to have a day's stay on way back to Bangalore and thus stayed at  Davangere.   We went to Sree Harihareshwara temple and on the day there was procession arranged with reverence and prayers to River Tungabhadra.  In the night, ordered and took Davangere Benne Dosa.

 08 08 22   

After breakfast, started and reached Bangalore at around 2 pm.

Separate Blog postings are posted of the individual temples or sites and the links are appended here.

1   Sree Manjunatha Temple, Dharmathsthala
        https://sarayutoayodhya.blogspot.com/2022/04/sree-manjunatha-temple-dharmathsthala.html
2    Sree Annapoorneswari, Horanadu
        https://sarayutoayodhya.blogspot.com/2022/04/sree-annapoorneswari-temple-horanadu.html
3    Sree Sharadambal temple, Sringeri
        https://sarayutoayodhya.blogspot.com/2022/04/sree-sharadambal-temple-sringeri-after.html
4    Sree Suryanarayana Temple Naravi
        https://sarayutoayodhya.blogspot.com/2013/06/shree-suryanarayana-temple-naravi.html
5    Sree Durga Parameswari Temple, Kateel
        https://sarayutoayodhya.blogspot.com/2022/04/sree-durgaparameswari-temple-kateel-on.html
6    Sree Vadabandeshwar Balaramar Temple near Malpe Beach Udupi
        https://sarayutoayodhya.blogspot.com/2022/04/vadabhandeshwar-sree-balaramar-temple.html
7    Sree Krishna Temple, Udupi
        https://sarayutoayodhya.blogspot.com/2022/04/sree-krishna-temple-udupi-on-02-04-22.html
8    Sree Mookambika Devi, Kollur, Karnataka
        https://sarayutoayodhya.blogspot.com/2022/04/sree-mookambika-devi-kollur-karnataka.html
9    Murdeshwar, Karnataka
        https://sarayutoayodhya.blogspot.com/2022/04/murdeshwar-karnataka-murdeshwar-temple.html
10    Mahatobar Sree Mahaganapathi Temple, Idagunji, Karnataka
        https://sarayutoayodhya.blogspot.com/2022/04/mhatobar-sree-mahaganapathi-temple.html
11    Sree Mahabaleshwar, Gokarna, Karnataka
        https://sarayutoayodhya.blogspot.com/2022/04/sree-mahabaleshwar-gokarana-karnataka.html
12    Sahasralinga, Marikamba and Mahaganapathi temple of Sirsi, Karnataka
        https://sarayutoayodhya.blogspot.com/2022/04/sahasralinga-marikamba-and.html
13    Badami, Pattadakall and Aihole of Karnataka
        https://sarayutoayodhya.blogspot.com/2022/04/badami-pattadakall-and-aihole-of.html

BADAMI, PATTADAKALL AND AIHOLE OF KARNATAKA
(Cave temples and Sculptures)

On 06 04 22, we left Belgavi and reached Badami in the afternoon.  After settling down in the Hotel and taking rest, we proceeded in the evening to Badami caves.   The sculptural works in the 3 regions of Badami/Pattadakall/Aihole were all during Chalukya regime and Badami and Aihole had been capital for some time for Chalukyas.  While Badami temples were carved out of the mountains and thus cave temples, Pattadakall was stone built temples and majority of the stone structures in Aihole too are stone built structures.

The Badami Chalukya era (7th and 8th century) was an important period in the development of South Indian architecture. Their style of architecture is called “Chalukyan architecture” or “Karnata Dravida architecture”. Nearly a hundred monuments built by them, rock cut (cave) as well as structural, and are found in the Malaprabha river basin in modern Bagalkot district of northern Karnataka. The building material they used was reddish-golden Sandstone found locally. Though they ruled a vast empire, The Chalukyans concentrated most of their temple building activity in a relatively small area within the Chalukyan heartland – Aihole, Badami, Pattadakal and Mahakuta in modern Karnataka state.

The red sandstone cliffs of Badami offered a spectacular setting for the excavation of four caves, three pertaining to the Hindu Pantheons and one Jaina (Parshwavanath).   Frist cave concentrates on the aspects of Lord Shiva and the second and the third Vishnu and his avatars.
The largest  is Cave 3, dedicated to Vishnu. An inscription next to a Varaha depiction states that Mangalesa, a brother of King Kirtivarman, dedicated the cave in A.D. 578. Members of the royal family of Chalukyas patronized many Chalukyan monuments. All of them were created in 6th and 7th century. The architecture is a mixture of the Nagara style and Dravida style. Apart from the above four, there is a fifth natural Buddhist cave in Badami.

There is an entry ticket for Badami caves controlled by Archeological Survey of India.  In the first cave, in a stone enclosure as we approach to our right, in the inner walls Lord Ganapathy on one side and Lord Subramanya on the other side are depicted.    Around 25 steps are to be covered to reach the sculptures in the first cave and it is a small cave.
Nataraja with 18 hands is the main attraction here.

Further steps have to be covered to see the other caves.  A few of the sculptural works in these areas have been shown here.   Apart from that, one can also see the Boothnath temple by the side of the lake on the eastern side, once when we ascend to the 2nd cave.  

In the same evening, we also had darshan of Sree Bhanshankari devi, the temple which is at a distance of 4 Kms from Badami.   The place is also called as Shakambari Sakthi Peetham and the area is called Cholachagudda -  A very powerful and popular deity in the area.

After darshan at this temple, we left for our hotel.   The next morning on 07 04 22, we continued after breakfast and first went to Pattadakall at a distance of 19 kms.  The entire distance between Badami and Pattadakall, on either side of the road, millets of all types and Maize were being cultivated.  Harvest of the crops were under progress.

There is an entry ticket for Pattadakall sculptures controlled by Archeological Survey of India. 

The main attraction here is the Lord Virupaksha temple inside the compound and some family has taken pain to offer minimum required pooja here.   The Virupaksha structure is at the last of the enclosure and opposite to the Linga, there is a Nandhi too.   Besides that, there are other structures some dilapidated and some in full form.  A few of the structures and Sree Virupaksha with nandi are shown here.   These structures are on the banks of Malaprabha river.

We continued our tour and left Pattadakall and proceeded to Aihole, again the monuments protected and Archeological Survey of India have made an enclosure, who are as group at one place, it is said that Aihole has many of old structures spread across the village.  There is entry ticket for the protected monuments site of Aihole and there is a museum too adjoining this place.  We engaged a guide here to explain the importance of the place.  Though he explained in detail on the various structures, he stressed that Aihole and Badami had been capital of Chalukya regimes and lot of the structures had been occupied by many people and when the archeological survey of India took the place from them. Some of sites have been named after them and some of the idols have been replaced from one structure to the other and some could be seen not matching the pedastal meant for and  as the height of some of figures cannot be accommodated in the space provided.  However they have been named and one such has been named as Suryanarayana Gudi.  A few of the photographs are given here.

We completed the major part of the tour with the visit to the Aihole monuments.  We returned to Bangalore via Davangere and staying for a night at Davangere duly enjoying the famous Davangere "Benne Dose".   On the evening of 07 04 22, we went Harihareshwara temple, Harihar.  Women were carrying the Tungabhadra river water in Khalasas and a festival was going on.  There were celebration with gaiety and fanfare.

The next day on 08 04 22, we started after breakfast and reached Bangalore by afternoon.

SAHASRALINGA, MARIKAMBA AND MAHAGANAPATHI TEMPLE OF SIRSI

As we had darshan at Gokarna by 10.30 AM on 04 04 22, our next halt was Sirsi at a distance of 80 Kms and covered in 2 Hours.  We had already booked accommodation for the day at Sirsi.  We checked in the hotel in the afternoon and took rest and left in the evening by local vehicle, which was useful negotiating smaller roads.  Sirsi is a taluk Headquarters and forms part of Uttara Kanara District of Karnataka.

MARIKAMBA DEVI
The first place to go was the Marikamba Devi temple in the centre of Sirsi town, on the Sirsi-Banavasi Road, in a large road junction.   The Massive structure with Warli Painting with white background and with red colour was very attractive, which has a large hall in the middle.  It is said that the temple was built in 1689.  These paintings had been done recently and it a was treat to watch.   Mounted on a tiger, the vigragha of Marikamba is 7 ft tall and in an intensely powerful form with 8 Hands.    She is rightly called as "Doddamma" and considered an elder sister to all Durgas within Karnataka.   The Famous Marikamba Fair is organised every alternate year and a large number of devotees from all over Karnataka attend the Fair.
The Vighragha was found in a lake near Hanagal in Hubli and installed here.

We had darshan in this temple in about 30 Min, though there was large crowd around the temple.

Temple Timings
Tuesday 06.00 AM to 10.00 PM
Other      06.00 AM to 09.00 PM

SREE MAHAGANAPATHI (DODDA GANAPATHI)

This temple is at a distance of 1 Km from Marikamba temple, 3 kms from Bus Stand and in Rayarapete area of Sirsi.   Roads are narrower as we approach the temple.  The Ganapathi Vigragha is 6 ft in height and almost 5 1/2 feet in width.   The temple is approximately 400 years old and is of Sonda Empire period.  It has been renovated later to the present form.  It more looks like a house.  We had darshan here and left for the hotel for the night stay.

Temple Timings:
06.00 AM to 07.00 PM

SAHASRALINGA
The place where the Lingas on the Shalamala River Bed is known as Sahasralinga and it is at a distance of 14 Kms and it takes around 20 Min and on the route of Sirsi - Yellapur and had to take a diversion at Hulgol and is at 2 Kms from this place.  We went to this River bed on 05 04 22 early morning vacating the Hotel to enable us to proceed from there straight to Belgavi for a halt there.  

As there was lesser flow of water, many of the Lingas could be seen and they were also accessible.   Though Pooja as such is not being carried out on daily basis, devotees throng on the Mahashivaratri day.  Tourists enjoy this place as it has a hanging bridge and lot of flora and fauna are available in the area.

The place is known for its 1000 Shiva Lingas that are carved on the rocks along the banks of the Shalmala. As far as history is concerned,  1000 lingas were installed by the ruler Sadashivaraya of the Vijayanagar Kingdom sometime between 1678 and 1718. The unique thing about these are that each linga features a carving of Nandi, the bull right in front.

These sahasralingas formed in Shalamala Rivers is compared with the story of Uppinangady where 1000 linga are found in the river bed and has the legend connected with Bheema taking Pushpamruga as advised by Lord Krishna to conduct Rajasoorya Yagna.

It looks an isolated place and necessary precautions be taken for that.

Timings:
06.00 AM to 05.00 PM

After spending wonderful time at the Sahasralinga getting into the water with family members,  we left Sirsi and surroundings and proceeded to Belgavi for stay and to take rest.

SREE MAHABALESHWAR, GOKARANA, KARNATAKA

We proceeded to Gokarana from Idagaunji, at a distance of 63 Kms and reached in an Hour.  Gokarana, a small village is at distance of 177 Kms from Udupi and forms part of Kumta Taluk, Uttara Karnataka District of Karnataka.   The practice here is to first have darshan of the Ganapathy which is just 50 metres from the Mahabaleshwar temple.  

                                                                    Ganapathi Temple

There were only a few devotees and around 50 only were in the Queue and it took just 20 Min for us to have the Darshan of Mahabaleshwar.  Every one who enters the temple in the morning hours are permitted to touch the atma linga,Mahabaleshwar (Sparsha Darshan).   Flowers of assorted varieties and Vilva Leaves are sold outside the Mahaganapathi and as well as Mahabaleshwar temple.

Legend
Ravana, King of Srilanka, after great penance got an Atma Linga from Lord Shiva.  Lord Shiva had instructed that the Linga should not be kept on the   ground anywhere, until he reached his destination.  When Ravana wanted to finish his evening Prayers, the Devas who did not want Ravana to become powerful with that Linga with him, acted through Lord Ganapathi.
Ganapathi disguised as a Brahmin, said to Ravana he wanted to help him and he would hold the Linga until he finished his evening chores.  But before could return after completing his prayers, he kept the Linga on the ground.  Ravana cursed the Brahmin and tried to pull the Linga from the ground and it got lengthened and appeared as the ear of a Cow and the place got the name Gokarna.  The linga could not be retrieved and thus Mahabaleshwar, the atma Linga stayed at Gokarna blessing devotees.  Ganapthi temple is next to Mahabaleshwar temple.

Gokarna Temple Complex also has shrines dedicated to Lord Ganapathi, Lord Dattatreya, and the Goddess Taamaragowri. The Kotitheertham or the Pushkarini is a small manmade tank present near the Gokarna Temple.  The temple bull is of giant size.  

Mahabaleshwar

It is said that the temple was first built by Mayura Sharma of Kadamba Dynasty in the Years 345 - 365 AD.   He wanted to learn on the Vedic Rites and Aswametha Yagna, and went to Kanchipuram, considered at that time, as the seat of Vedic Knowledge and Pallavas were ruling then.  He was insulted by a guard in the pallava Kingdom and thus he took a vow that he would defeat the Pallavas.   He fulfilled his vow by defeating the Pallavas and also ensured that the his suzerainty did not suffer by ordering daily Yagnas to be performed there.  Kalidasa's Raghuvamsa referred to the temple at Gokarana.  Mayura Sharma's son brought more Brahmins to Gokarna and entrusted the administration of the temple to them.  Chatrapati Shivaji has worshipped in this temple.

Dress code at Gokarna was very strictly implemented.  Men will have to necessarily wear a dothi.  Dothi are sold in the Prakara itself and one can get it just before entering the enclosure where the Queue starts inside the temple.  Half covering by Mundu (Towel) is not permissible. 

A must visit place which has religious significance a plenty and also small beach which would provide necessary relief from long drives. 

Temple Timings
06:00 am to 12:30 pm
12:50 pm to 02:00 pm
05:00 pm to 08:00 pm.